Bhutan’s former capital – Punakha, a riverside city, the abode of the most beautiful and auspicious dzong has the longest suspension bridge and Phallus paintings.
Suggested Read : Guide to Bhutan
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How to reach
3 hours (72 km) drive from Thimphu. Buses and taxis (both private and shared) are available from Thimphu to Punakha.
We booked a taxi for our entire stay in Bhutan. Read: Booking a taxi in Bhutan
Carry some packaged food/ snacks and water bottle. You might not find restaurants nearby these points.
Obtaining permit for Punakha
Punakha requires a separate permit. You can fill a form in the immigration office in Thimpu and collect the permit in 3-4 hours. We got ours extended for Punakha and Phobjikha. Your stay can be extended up to a maximum of 30 days. Immigration offices remain closed on Saturday, Sundays and Bhutan Public Holidays. On working days they remain open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM Bhutan Standard Time. So plan your travel accordingly.
Things to do in Punakha
Punakha Dzong/ Pungtang Dewa Chhenbi Phodrang
Standing in between two rivers (symbolizing Male and Female) – Punakha, the oldest and a beautiful Dzong is a place of great bliss.
The moment you cross the bridge and enter this peaceful place, you will fall in love with its scenic landscape. The Dzong has 3 sets of stairs to enter, the middle one is reserved for the royal family of Bhutan only.
Unlike other dzongs having only two courtyards, Punakha has three courtyards with the first one being meant for administrative functions and also houses a Boddhi Tree.
Residential quarters of monks are located in the second courtyard.
Third courtyard has the main temple which houses the national treasures.
—Timings—
8:30am ~ 17:00 (Summer: June, July and August)
11:00am~17:00pm (Winter: November, December, January)
The Dzong remains closed between 13:00pm~15:00pm during lunch time.
—Entry fees–
300 Nu with a guide
Suspension bridge
Bhutan’s Longest bridge (160 meters) over Po Chu river – Suspension Bridge connects the villages of Shengana, Samdingkha and Wangkha to the Palace of the Wangchuk Kings. Strong winds there sway the bridge and walking on this surely makes one feel butterflies in the stomach.
Once you reach in the middle of the bridge stop for a few minutes and enjoy the view.
When we crossed the bridge, we saw an under construction house. In Bhutan’s tradition, they sing songs and dance while constructing a house and so we too joined them to have a memorable experience.
—Location—
It takes hardly 10 minutes to reach the bridge from Punakha Dzong by car.
From the backyard of Punakha Dzong, it’s 15 min walk.
Chimmi Lakhang Temple/ Temple of fertility
Where else in the world you will find Phallus symbols on the walls of the houses around the temple. While roaming in the streets of Bhutan, one comes across something uncommon – penis paintings and Phallus Souvenirs.
Seeing these symbols and paintings, we got curious to know about them but were hesitant to ask. Finally, our curiosity settled when we visited this temple – built in the 15th century after the site was blessed by saint Drukpa Kunley, known as Divine Madman famous for his unconventional teachings. He advocated the use of Phallus symbols to drive evil spirits away.
A belief is prevalent here that if any childless couple pays a visit to this temple, their wish is granted by blessing them with a wooden Phallus that is believed to have been brought from Tibet by Divine Madman.
There are handicrafts shops as well in the village from where you can buy phallus souvenirs and paintings.
—How to reach—
This temple lies on the outskirts of Punakha (10 km) on Punakha -Thimphu Highway is 30 minutes walk from the main road (Lobesa village) through the paddy fields and village houses. Here you will get the taste of rural Bhutan.
In case you don’t want to walk much, vehicles are allowed up to the temple parking area and from here the temple is just 5 min walk.
Riverside of Punakha
Buy a bottle of Bhutanese beer or Peach wine, take some snacks with you, drive a bit away from the city, to find a quiet place along the Punakha river.
There are rafting options as well.
Accommodation in Punakha
Hotel Lingar
This budget hotel located by the riverside of Punakha was suggested by our guide and he booked it for us over the phone for 1500 Nu per night. This hotel has clean and spacious rooms with basic furniture, hygienic washrooms, and riverside facing balcony though not very clean. Overall the hotel is worth the cost.
If you are on a budget then this hotel is fine for you. You might not find it on online booking websites but you can drop a message on their facebook account LINGAR if you want to book a room.