A bowl-shaped glacial valley near the black mountain peaks with no concrete buildings, cables/wires/antennas. The silence of the Black Mountains, wide open sky, rare bird species and people who welcome you with warm feelings – is all that you find here. It seems like a land of fairy tales.
Suggested Read : Guide to Bhutan
There are no street lights here. In the morning, you wake up with the sound of beautiful Black-necked Cranes (a bird species). The window of your room in this untouched valley offers you a view of birds, animals, and mountains – in totality giving you a feel of being amidst nature.
Go for a morning walk here and enjoy the beauty of this place – the sight of mountains and feeling of peace, sitting by the side of a river stream.
If you choose to pay a visit to this place, it will surely be one of the best memories of your trip.
Note: Phobjika is a cold place. Sometimes temperature drops below zero degrees. Pack yourself in layers of clothes.
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How Phobjikha touched our hearts
Have you ever encountered 100s of yaks at one place? When we were about to enter Phobjika, we saw 3 of them and after a while, 100s of them, grazing and lazing around.
Seeing so many yaks together, we were standing there and appreciating the moment, when small cotton like ball sat on my nose, followed by many.
Ooo my god!!! It was snow.
It has started snowing.
As we proceeded further, snowfall stopped. Suddenly our driver stopped the car and started running the moment he got down and asked us to follow him.
Perplexed we followed him.
And after a while, 100 of huge, beautiful cranes were flying over us.
Black-necked crane is a big bird and a medium-sized crane in Asia and is the only species of the crane family that lives on high altitudes.
They fly to Bhutan from Tibet in late October and stay up to early March. Phobjika is the best place to spot them and to ensure that birds continue to come here, it has been declared a protected region.
We loved every bit of our stay in Phobjika. It’s so untouched and naturally beautiful that everything seems to be an experience of its own kind.
How to reach Phobjikha
Phobjika is 130 km (4.5-5 hours) from Thimphu and 80 km (3 hours) from Punakha.
If you plan to visit this place, we recommend you to book a taxi as transport is not readily available here. The roads get narrower and view get enthralling as we reach near Phobjika. Being a glacial valley, the temperature is low here and is covered with snow in winters.
Things to do in Phobjikha
Black neck crane information centre
A visitor’s center of Royal Society for Protection of Nature (RSPN) provides information on black-necked cranes and the valley. It has an observatory and a mini theatre. The staff there facilitates you the view of cranes and valley. RSPN has the mandate for conservation and monitoring black-necked cranes.
We saw an injured crane there that was taken care of by the staff at the Information Centre. Owing to the loss of feather, it could not fly back to Tibet.
You can visit the information centre and see this crane named ‘Karma’ closely without any charges.
–Fee for visiting inside the centre–
150 Nu
Note : No fee for watching the injured crane but yes you can donate.
Gangtey Nature Trail
A short trek of around 90 minutes in the lap of nature.
A pure bliss. Usually, people start it from Gangtey Gompa, but we did it the other way round.
Panoramic view of the valley is what you get while walking.
Soon the walk is amidst pine trees, followed by fields and village houses. Again you will cross a stream and as you proceed upward, look behind to embrace the view.
Sit there for a while to relax and enjoy the beauty of the place. Five minutes from here is the temple, Gangtey Gonpa.
Gangtey Gonpa
Resting at a hill top and overlooking Phobjika valley is a 17th-century Monastery/Temple – Gangtey Gonpa, providing amazing views of Phobjikha valley.
It is the largest Nyingmapa (ancient) monastery in Western Bhutan. The complex has central gonpa, accommodation for the monk and meditation centres.
Note : There are no tourist restaurants in Phobjika. So better have your meal at your place of stay or else you can carry packaged food.
Accommodation in Phobjikha
Zam Pasang Homestay – Real experience of a homestay
While in phobjikha, it was our home for a night. If you want to experience a homestay in a real sense – this is the place for you. It’s a farmhouse with a homestay on the first floor. They provide you with only beddings in the rooms. Though no geysers/ heaters are allowed in homestays, you won’t feel cold as they keep it warm and cozy. The caretaker of the homestay is a very generous ‘ama’ (Aunt).
There is a kitchen with dining on the floor. They keep it warm and cozy. There are two common washrooms. At night if you feel cold, they will provide you hot water bottles and it really helps.
Even though it lacked the urban amenities, we had the best of our sleep here and we woke up to the sound of black-necked cranes.
We booked it for Rs. 1500 per person. You can book it on the phone (+975 17443219) or by visiting the place. But it might be full in peak season, so it’s better to pre-book.
Gangtey Lodge
If homestays are not your kind of thing, then there are some hotels as well in Phobjikha. You can book them online.
Guys!!! Do include this beautiful and offbeat location in your Bhutan Trip!!!